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Hurray for longer sunny hours!! Do you get the feeling the sun is giving us a warm nudge to be happy? I felt that and it prompted me to sew something Spring appropriate for Mom. Switching up from Mom’s usual Laurel (it needs a break), we picked out Colette’s Hawthorn in view 1.


I made view 1 for myself in Fall 2013 with lots of fitting issues around the bust darts; think I moved them at least 6 times before settling down (though they weren’t perfect either). When Mom tried mine on, the bust area was a perfect fit. Gut feeling says I might need a SBA even though I’m a B/C Cup.

FrontBackSideGarment Details

  • Flat collar lays flat to the collar bone
  • Slight cinch around the waist to keep things fitted
  • Peplum balances out the garment with just enough flounce to keep things pretty around the asset.
  • Buttons!!

Fabric

Gala Fabrics were clearing out their summer inventory and I scored a lightweight polyester for $2/m. The staff at Gala suggested I use it to make a wearable muslim since there isn’t much risk in using a $2/m fabric (as compared to $8/m fabric).

Notions

Buttons, buttons, buttons. I like to pick out buttons near the end (almost 90% complete). It seems buttons picked out early on might not be the best choice. I found the buttonhole stitching plays a role in changing how the garment looks like.

Dad gave me a box of assorted buttons he collected back in the days. The assortment looks a bit bizarre with the pinks, blues, and purples in the same size but different styles. Some have more character, like the ‘Ocean Pacific’ yellows, whites, and blues. The yellow ‘Ocean Pacific’ buttons matched the fabric.Buttons

Construction and Alternations

Seam FinishingInside Shoulder

The fabric was a Fray Monster~!! Every seam was a scene from a horror movie! Imagine what would happen if I didn’t do any seam finishes, it could be a feature-length movie. The seams on the shoulder and sleeves were turned and stitched. Side seams were french seamed. The facing and waist seam were bounded by bias tape.

(This is the first garment I made with all seams finished)

Inside

Interfacing

For interfacing, I used a lightweight fusible interface which I bought from Dressew. I didn’t want the collars to look like cardboard with my usual interface so I picked one that still keeps a bit of drape from the fabric.

Facing

errors on Pattern Instructions

By default, most patterns have 5/8″ seam allowance included within the pattern itself. Exceptions are sometimes printed on the pattern pieces OR within the instructions. The collar section is poorly written in this pattern. If you follow the book, you will notice the collar comes up short with the marking on the front pieces. This is frustrating when the collar is already clipped, turned, and pressed. Instead of making the adjustments, you might as well make a new collar. To remedy this, sew the collar pieces at 2/8″ seam. The collar will match up to the marking if you do this.

Could this be a human error? Possible but unlikely. Colette Patterns sends out their patterns to a group of sewers prior to final editting for printing. If there were a mistake, it should have been pointed out then and not after it has been released for public sale. I know independent pattern makers pride themselves with the quality of their patterns but this kind of mistake should have been fixed early on. To make things worse, parts of the sewalong and the instructions don’t correspond with each other. Felt like the writer skipped a step or two ahead because she already knew how to do the technique or merely ‘forgot’ to write it down.

Final Thoughts

The collar and peplum really brings out the garment’s character but the instruction errors really bogs down the whole experience of the pattern. If I were to make this again for Mom, I would…

  • Shorten length of torso
  • Use a ‘stiffer’ fabric (more structure)
  • Redo arm scythe
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