Family Day long weekend calls for extended sewing sessions.
I was at Fabricana last month to purchase the new Sewaholic patterns, Granville Shirt and Oakridge Blouse. Then right beside them were bolts of new fabric, Japan cotton, calling for me to take them home. Can’t….resist… must make shirt.
Then on the way to the cutting table, I eyed a white cotton shirting with blue bicycles. I thought, “you will be my new best friend”. As usual, I went to find Andrea for cutting. She saw the fabric and laughed, “I’m guessing this one is for you and that one is for Mom”. She knows my fabric choices too well.
After cutting the pieces, I sat aside with the pattern to think over what I am getting myself into.
Menswear inspired Shirt = Collar + Sleeves(Placket + Cuffs) + 9 Buttons
This is a BIG project. I have put off making proper button-up shirts for a while. The collar, plackets, and cuffs can be very intimidating for a beginner sewer but I think I can handle them now. They are the ‘needs to be good’ parts to making the shirt good.
Why hesitate?! I took advantage of the long weekend to focus on this project.
Sewing So Far…
Sizing is my usual 8/10/6 with some changes:
- Overall size 8
- Side seams are 8 bust, grade to 10 waist, and taper back to 6 hips
- 0 for length
- Shortened sleeves by 3″
This is my second go at flat-felled seams. I like how they tuck away the unsightly seam fabric without being too bulky. The extra line of stitching is a nice touch but not noticeable on the outside because I matched the thread with the fabric. If I’m brave enough, I’ll try a contrast thread.
There is A LOT of edgestitching and topstitching in this project. Glad I had lots of practice when sewing bias tape. For the stitch length, I shortened it to 2 instead of my usual 2.5 (some blogs suggested 1.5 but it felt too short).
Collar and Collar Stand
It was already Sunday 11pm but I was on a roll and went ahead with the collar. Super glad I bought a proper sewing ham. To shape the collar, I wrapped it around the ham, pinned it in place, and steamed it all over.
Placket Part 1
I spent all of Monday trying to figure out the placket. This one is the tower placket with the small triangle at the end. There are a lot of steps on the placket but Sewaholic managed to squeeze all that into 3 blurbs. Thankfully Colette Patterns did a very visual placket sewalong for the Hawthorn, it’s good to have a look over there before starting. I only went halfway with the placket as I had to call it a night.
- Press the sides down as marked by the notches
- I drew in a 1/4″ box around the snip to make sure everything was even
- Stitched around the drawn line. Looks good to me.
- After the snip, flip over, and quick press, it’s starting to look like a placket.
For Next Time
The shirt is coming along quite well. I still need to work on
- Finishing the plackets
- Create buttonholes
- Find 9 buttons
Update: Continue reading on to see the finished garment.