Brand new dress for me in one of the boldest colour choices yet.
What a coincidence! There is a pattern sitting in my stash from one of the Big 4s which is very similar to the new Sewaholic pattern. That dress is still in planning as I continue to doubt the amount of ease in the finished garment to my size. (No fun when I’m between envelope sizes)
When I saw the Sewaholic Davie on the blog, I put the Big 4 pattern back in the stash and quickly went out to the fabric store. It’s a pleasure to know that sizing is consistent throughout Sewaholic Patterns, one less thing to worry.
There were two outings to Fabricana for this dress, all within 24 hours.
Mom first saw a salmon floral print on black but I was interested in the one beside it. The label says Marni Knit at 94% Polyester and 6% Spandex. The touch is very scuba wear but soft enough for some cheek cuddling. Pink is not my usual colour choice but I felt at ease as the print took me into its world of vibrant colours. This will make a very nice dress, plus I don’t have anything like this in my closet.
Before I went to work the next day, I took a good look at the basted dress on the dress form and felt the pink was too much. Mom called me at work and said the same thing. We went back to Fabricana to find a contrast for the side panels. Andrea understood my concern and led me to the direction of more colourful knits (nothing black). As she paired my Marni knit to a blue and teal knit, more possibilities came up!! Who knew I would leave with teal fabric as a contrast.
The princess seams are topstitched on either side so any colour would work. The light gray in my thread stash gave a clean finish on my test piece. Be aware this project takes up 3 times the usual amount of thread if done with top stitching. Luckily, I had an extra (250m) spool on hand.
Construction and Alternations
I chose to make View B for the capped sleeves and ‘shorter’ length. The shorter length hits just above the knee for the Sewaholic model at 5’4″, which would be a below the knee for me.
Love how the keyhole isn’t too ‘deep’. I felt comfortable with it even though it’s just a sliver of skin peeking out. The keyhole is easy to sew as it is on the front seam. Be sure to backstitch on both ends to prevent any unraveling.
Bias Binding Neckline
The neckline is on the higher side but it balances out the skin shown on the arms and legs. The bias binding does make the neckline stiffer but I like how it sits without much distortion. Next time I would open it up a bit more.
On my first wear outside, I heard a couple ‘pops‘ as I moved around. Oops…too much tension there. Remember to use a stretchier stitch for this area.
Adding In-seam Pockets
The pattern does not come with pockets…but I need them!! At last year’s Sewtionary Book Launch, Caroline was showing me the then to-be-released Rae skirt sample. No pockets on the pattern but Caroline assured me I could easily add in-seam pockets, plus there’s a section on it in the book. If I can do it there, why not here too!
With my Sewtionary book opened to pages 143-144, I followed the instructions on adding an in-seam pocket (plus borrowing the pocket piece from the Cambie dress pattern). For placement, I let my hands place themselves into the imaginary pockets of the basted dress and pinned the pieces in place. Then it was a breeze to sew them in place with the instructions. I skipped the top stitch on the side seams to keep things more simple.
When I wore the finished dress, it felt natural for the dress to have pockets. I noticed the pockets had a tendency to bulk up in the wrong place at the wrong time. I remedied that with a couple stitches in the ditch of the front princess seam to tack the pockets.
Now I want to revisit my old makes to add new in-seam pockets.
Top Stitching for seam finishing
This took the longest time… it felt like sewing 3 dresses in one go. I like how they make the seams more prominent but they do get lost in the print (vs. solid). They also helped out in finishing the seam allowance (which I will diligently trim down knowing well my dress won’t pop open). For the next make, I might skip it altogether but the thought of using a contrasting thread is exciting.
I can’t wait to make a second one! I already purchased additional fabric to compliment the remaining side panels not used in this dress. There is a Davie Q&A with the yardage for the panels. After a few wear, I feel the need to shorten the torso as there is a bit of fabric bunching on my back.
- Open up the neckline a bit more
- Skip the topstitching or go crazy on it
- Pockets are a must
- Shorten for a blouse?