At Fabricana’s New Year sale, I asked Andrea for fabric suggestions. (Andrea has been my go-to fabric cutter since I started sewing. She introduced me to Sewaholic Patterns and is a major Lady Gaga fan) She picked out a $9.98/m navy cotton-blend with a bit of stretch. Decent for a dress with little ease. For the contrast collar, I picked an orange quilting cotton with a paisley/spiral design. This would match nicely with the orange piping.
From experience, I have to watch out for several fit issues:
- Sloped right shoulder
- Excess fabric on right-side of back bodice
- Shorten dress by 1-2″ (depends on style)
- Grade up a size in waist area (I’m a 6-8-6, bust-waist-hip, on this pattern)
I made a wearable muslim from a pair of oversized pants. (Why not reuse something that doesn’t fit)
There are 3 | 3 darts in the bust area. When I tried on the muslim, the darts looked like they were facing the wrong direction. Instead of lying nicely under my bust, they are all turned outwards. I ironed it again to see if it would make a difference, same problem. I’m guessing it is more suited for a bustier/wider person. Then I tried the size 0 darts on the size 6 piece. The darts are in the correct position but it the fit looks bumpy. Will see how it is on the real fabric.
There are 1 | 1, two mini darts on the back bodice piece above the midriff. The darts are roughly 2″ long and are much shorter after attaching the midriff. For a moment, I thought the back piece was the front. It could pass as a front bodice with the positioning of the 2 darts. There was too much fabric in the back. I extended the darts by 1.5″ and sewed them with a slight curve. The results are better than before. I wonder if the excess fabric was intended to support any ‘back ass’.
The dress is in 4 pieces right now: Front/Back Bodice and Front/Back Skirt. I pinned the pieces together as if I had sewn a 5/8″ seam. My initial reaction was just how cute the orange piping is on the pockets. As for fit, I’m worried about too much fabric around the hip area. Might take it in a bit.
This neckline is W I D E. I fear the shoulder would drop off on the side if I sew it at 5/8″ seam. Maybe sewing it at 3/8″ will be better off. Have to consider hiding my bra underneath the dress, don’t want any bit peeking out.
Alterations so far…
- Size 0 front bodice darts
- Extended size 6 back darts by 1.5″